24 hours in Cairo

If you’ve only got a day to do it, this is what you want to see. The best thing about these places is that they’re still there – since they’ve always been there. Get ready to see the best spots in Cairo.

Cairo is obviously on your Egypt itinerary, but this day is not that. You’ll see no pyramids, ride no camels. This day is for Cairo, the living, breathing, life of the city.

My guess is you’re probably flying in and out of Cairo, so you’ve planned your pyramid day and your museum day – but what about the day at the end of the trip? Before you board your plane home, your last look at Egypt.

I lived in Cairo for two years, from 2015-2017, but the part of Cairo where even locals ask how I ended up there. Just blocks away from Tahrir Square and the busy-ness that is downtown, I thrived. Riding my bright yellow bike (B. was pre-Charlie) through rush hour traffic, eating 2 LE fouul and falafel (in Cairo it’s tamiya*), and sipping homemade sangria on my balcony. What a time to be alive.

Having recently gone back with Mido to walk down memory lane, we went to all my favorite spots and it was all happily (mostly) as I remembered.

*In Alexandria it’s still falafel.

Places to Stay

This itinerary focuses on downtown, so it’s best you stay around the area. Garden City is a nice contrast to the busy, but still nearby if downtown’s not your thing.

Garden City

There’s no rush to this morning. Wake at your leisure and depending on where you’re staying make way to Garden City. This quieter cousin to Mounira and the downtown area sets the perfect scene for a lazy morning walk. With old British architecture, the walk is the activity. Wander through the winding streets and admire the high ceilings and lush greenery, the namesake of the neighborhood. Grab a coffee from Beano’s for the walk, or have a sit-down at Room Arts Space and Cafe.

Felucca

An absolute must do in Cairo is a felucca, or a boat ride on the Nile. Day or night, these boats are rented by the hour, with a bit of haggling needed for the right price. There are both motor boats and sailboats, but the sailboat is much preferred. My tried and true spot is easy to find, just across the street from the Four Seasons Garden City (no affiliation with the hotel). You’ll see the sailboats peeking up from the corniche, so cross and take the steps down to climb aboard. We were able to take an hour for 400 LE (approx $13), but just note the Egyptian pound can fluctuate quite a bit so take this as a guideline.

The bravest walk, but an uber will do.

Khan El Khalili

Last stop for souvenirs, or in Mido’s case to eat the best stuffed pigeon in Cairo and for me to see an old friend.

If you haven’t tried pigeon before, now’s your chance. Mostly dark meat like a good turkey leg, pigeons (hammam) are a common meal in Egypt, stuffed with deliciously spiced rice and cooked til golden and crispy. Farahat Restaurant is as local as it gets, with plastic tables tucked in the alleyway. Don’t miss out on the soup, served in a paper cup. Aish baladi (bread) and salad comes alongside.

Full and happy, you can make your way to the rest of the market next. Twisting narrow alleyways that open up to small plazas are what create the magic of Khan El Khalili. It’s busy and the shopkeepers heckle and haggle like the best of ‘em, but it’s all part of the fun. Fishawy is a classic if you want to have tea, fresh juice or a shisha, or head to Naguib Mahfouz for a more posh setting.

For my favorite spot, you’ll head to Naguib Mahfouz, but not to go inside. Amo Abdo, or Uncle Abdo, sits at the table directly in front of the cafe door. His little table and what’s hung on the age-old market wall is just a small taste of the embroidery and textile work his larger shop around the corner holds. We struck a friendship when I bought a pillow with ‘Cairo’ in Arabic, and later came back requesting he make a computer case out of the basic cushion fabric of the market chairs. I would then spend afternoons sitting and chatting with Amo, watching the shop and drinking ‘ahwa mesboot.’ Every time I return to Cairo, I find a way to visit to pick up gifts for friends and say hi to an old one.

Mokkattam

For one of the best sunset spots overlooking the city, head up to Mokkattam (when pronouncing it the k is silent, so Mo-at-tam). There you’ll find their version of a corniche at the edge of the mountainside. Small seating areas are set up, meaning carpets on the ground and pillows leaning against palm trunks, with guys serving mint tea or Arabic coffee. Nothing fancy, but the views are spectacular. On a clear day, best in October or March, you can see all the way to the pyramids.

The Carlton

Not to be confused with the Ritz, this Carlton is in the heart of downtown with a great rooftop garden. Stop for a quick drink and catch the vibe. There’s drinks and shisha and snack on some ‘termis,’ local boiled beans with salt and lime. (Pro tip: don’t eat the outside shell of the beans; it won’t hurt you, it just won’t taste as good. Think of them like edamame.)

The rest of the night is walkable.

Abu Tarek

Koshery is a staple and one of the most famous dishes of Egypt. Seems like an odd mix to have noodles, rice, chickpeas, lentils and red sauce topped with fried onions – but oh man does it work. A cheap meal and very filling. While you can find koshery on other street corners, Abu Tarek is an experience. Silly fountains and bright lights shout success, but they’re famous for a reason. There’s only one thing you get here, so get the special and make sure to add plenty of the vinegar and spicy sauce for a kick.

Horreya

Winding down the night, a trip to Cairo would not be complete without a visit to Horreya. Meaning ‘Freedom’ in English, this bar has been around for ages. Serving coffee in the daytime, at night one side of this simple shop starts serving beer. Tables and chairs scatter in different formations every night depending on the crowd. From beatniks and expats to old locals, you never know what you’re going to get, but everyone is welcome. Find a table and the one guy working will surely come around and crack a beer for you. As the night goes, he circles the room, tapping the bottle of a fresh Stella for anyone who is in need of another. To cash out, he’ll count the bottles left on your table. Every so often, someone selling chips will pass through, or you can grab snacks from the ‘kushk’ or corner store outside. But when hunger hits…

Samah

Once only a tiny food cart, Samah has grown to a (still small) hole-in-the-wall hotspot. You’ll see the crowd of people waiting; it seems like a bit of chaos, but it’s worth the wait. Don’t be shy to jump straight to the counter. The entire menu is in Arabic, which is half the fun. Each of the sandwiches are named after the people who made them popular – the Karim Allam being crowd favorite. The idea is to get a few, and at a bit over a dollar a sandwich, you might be tempted to try the whole menu.