life saudi arabia

Expat Experiences in Saudi Arabia

Stories and advice from AlUla

A long-time lucrative move for expats

Looking up into the date palms Saudi Arabia has been an interesting spot for expats for a while. Know as a place with high tax-free wages, the trade-off of compound life was worth it for a few years.

High wages and tax-free living – that’s what Saudi was known for. While the country was closed off to most of the world, expats have been recruited to work in big multi-national corporations or at international schools for decades. Previously, strict rules and societal norms left expats and Saudis pretty segregated, with most expats living in compounds. But things are changing, especially in AlUla.

The allure of AlUla for expats: Not your typical Saudi city

AlUla is a far cry from the main cities on Jeddah, Riyadh and Dammam. It’s a lush oasis surrounded by mountains, a tiny town lost in time while also being catapulted into modernity with Saudi’s Vision 2030. The locals still dress traditionally, the town observes an afternoon siesta, and shops close for prayer times. But during the high season, weekly concerts, various festivals, restaurant openings and more make AlUla burst to life. Our dog, ZouZou, sitting along the Oasis trail, with mudbrick building in the background

AlUla is the flagship tourist destination of Saudi Arabia. Unlike Neom, it’s an actual city you can visit right now, not years in the future. Real people live here, and have been for millennia. There’s heritage sites and hotels, restaurants and cafes, and a range of experiences and activities to keep you busy.

Because of it’s unique positioning, the city has almost doubled in size in the past 5 years with most of the newcomers being expats. Big welcome packages from organizations looking to hire are dwindling because people want to come here now.

Challenges and Triumphs: Common obstacles and how to overcome them

Mido and our dog, ZouZou, hiking in AlUla

Language barrier: Most locals only speak Arabic or can be shy with their English. However, that’s not to say that no one speaks English. Many of the more touristic restaurants have Filipino staff, and those in the city centre are used to seeing expats by now. Learning a few phrases in Arabic goes a long way, and when in doubt, there’s always google translate.

Cultural differences: Saudis are very family oriented people. They’re also so generous and helpful. There’s a mindset shift if you’re coming from the west and think people are close minded here. Rather, people like to give privacy to families, as a family unit is a sacred, safe space. The reason there are family sections in restaurants and closed rooms for each family is so that the women can uncover. But if you see a family on a picnic, they’ll almost always invite you over, give you dates, coffee and homemade snacks. Just be open-minded and remember you’re ultimately a visitor in their space.

Community and Support: Finding and creating expat networks

WhatsApp communities are king here in AlUla. There’s a massive “AlUla Life & Tips” chat for anyone who lives and/or works in AlUla. From that group there’s branches off into communities like hiking, pet lovers, horseback ridiging, ladies only, families, diving and more. You have to get invited to the group via a link or someone adding you, but that’s not difficult. Every so often the group is at maximum capacity, so there’s a bit of a wait list.

Day-to-Day Life: Routine and lifestyle adjustments

Sidney looking at goods for sale at the AlManshiyah Farmers Martket

Grocery shopping: There is no big supermarket in AlUla, rather a few larger family-run grocery stores, a huge fruit and veg market and a couple local butchers. Because of the expat community, you will find some things that stick out – like an organic section of dried goods, with easy access to chia seeds, flax seeds, quinoa and more. You’ll quickly learn where to get what, and I’ve found a new appreciation for buying smaller quantities of fresh food.

No alcohol: As someone who drank a lot of beer and wine before moving to Saudi, this was an adjustment, but definitely one for the better. With alcohol just not being an option,

A bowl of freshly picked arugala from the farm

you end up finding fun in other things. There are times I miss a good sundowner and there is talk of alcohol being available in hotels in the near-ish future, but for now life looks a lot more dry.

Slower pace of life: Going from a mega-city like Dubai, to AlUla had us doing a 180. Skyscrapers were swapped with stars and deliveroo was traded for picking fresh herbs from the farm. Fresh air fills your lungs and serenity soaks into your soul. While some people still go back to Dubai every other weekend, we actually enjoy it here in AlUla and relish the time we get to just be.

Conclusion: Reflecting on the expat journey and its rewards

Living in someplace new always comes with its challenges and learnings. Whether you’re looking to move abroad for the first time or you’re an old hat at shifting homes, change is still change. Saudi is at an extremely interesting period in its history.

If you have the opportunity to move to Saudi – do it! The reality is, you can always change your mind later if its absolutely not your thing. Weigh what’s right for you and your family, but this could just be the adventure you didn’t know you needed.

No matter where you end up in Saudi, take advantage of being in this beautiful country and explore. I mean road trips, Red Sea, up in the mountains – all of it. And of course, come visit AlUla.